La Cerdanya is a wide, open valley in the Catalan Pyrenees, shared between Spain and France. Surprisingly broad and sunny, it stands in striking contrast to the rugged peaks that surround it.
Thanks to its orientation and generous width, the valley enjoys long hours of sunshine, even in the middle of winter. Once an important route for trade and seasonal livestock migration, it is now home to picturesque villages, ski resorts and an outstanding network of hiking trails.
The region has also preserved its Romanesque churches, Pyrenean traditions and rich cuisine, with local specialities such as trinxat, artisan cheeses and cured meats that we enjoyed for breakfast and on our picnic lunches.
Our Catalan Pyrenees trip is rated 5 stars by our guests
To the south rises the Cadí Range, where spectacular limestone cliffs tower more than 800 metres above the villages below. We woke up to these impressive walls every morning, with views straight from our hotel windows, and explored their foothills on two separate hikes. The first took us through Scots pine forests and alpine meadows to Prat del Cadí; the second crossed woodland dotted with Irish oaks before leading us to a modest summit with magnificent views near Querforadat—literally "rock with holes."
To the north, a chain of peaks approaching 2,900 metres marks the frontier with Andorra and France. Tossa Plana de Lles and Perafita, the two main summits we climbed, rival any of the great peaks of the Pyrenees. From their tops we were able to look into—and, technically, even step "illegally" into—the neighbouring Principality of Andorra. We learned much more about this unique co-principality on our rest day during a visit to La Seu d'Urgell, expertly guided by our dear Pilar, who still had countless fascinating stories left to tell.
One of the week's highlights was undoubtedly our excursion to the French side of the valley, to Les Bouillouses. Granite landscapes, countless lakes, and wetlands carpeted with flowering cottongrass, together with a welcome breeze, made for a perfect sunny day in one of the Pyrenees' most popular hiking areas. The only real sign that we had crossed an international border was the change of language on road signs, and village names. Everything else—the landscape, the traditions and the atmosphere—felt remarkably familiar. And we found a nameless summit, with great views, that now we call “Hike Pyrenees peak”.
At the Cap del Rec mountain refuge, 2,000 metres above sea level, we discovered the landscape where the "ultra-terrestrial" Kilian Jornet grew up, developing the strength and endurance that continue to carry him to record-breaking achievements in mountains across the globe. (If you'd like to learn more about one of his latest projects, click here.)
La Cerdanya is a region so broad and distinctive in shape that you can easily spot it from afar on a globe. A place without borders.
A week of borderless hiking shared with sixteen new and old friends, and my dear colleague, Pablo. Thank you all.
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